Metalfab Fire Trucks

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Friday, October 4, 2013

Cold Weather Operations

   A common discussion in the Fire Service is running a “Dry” pump versus a “Wet” pump during the cold winter months. If a pump will be exposed to freezing weather conditions for a significant amount of time, running a dry pump would definitely be recommended. This practice reduces the possibility of pump components freezing and will identify if the tank to pump and tank fill valves are sealing properly. Caution - If these valves are leaking with the drain valve open, this could cause a situation where the booster tank may be low and the drain valve could freeze open rendering the pump inoperable. To completely drain your pump, please follow the simple steps that are typically printed on a label on the pump panel.

   Since moving water does not freeze, the fire pump should be engaged and water circulated while on scene. If operating from the apparatus booster tank, it would be recommended to operate the pump with the tank to pump fully open and the tank fill ¼ from closed. If operating from an external water supply, the operator should ensure that some water is being circulated through a discharge or tank fill valve. Care should be exercised to limit the amount of water spilling on scene. This could cause the area around the truck to become icy during a long emergency call.

   The pump house heat pan should be installed every fall and removed every summer. If your unit is equipped with an optional pump house heater, it should be used all the time during cold weather operations.
 
What precautions does your department make to the Fire Apparatus during the winter months?

 
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Location: Centreville, NB, Canada

2 comments:

  1. UnknownJanuary 30, 2015 at 10:50 PM

    Jacques, got a question for you; after arriving back at the station during winter months, and say you had a full pump...how long would you expect it to take for say a 1050 to drain once drains were pulled? Reason for the question, what is an acceptable time to realize the pump is either dry or theres a leak somewhere? ( I always used to close all valves, open the drain and then open a discharge at or close to the pump panel to "help" speed up the process..that ok?)

    Next one, in my younger days during winter ops (dry pump) I'd arrive on scene and as soon as I exited and chocked the wheels i'd open the tank to pump and then the tank fill, by the time the lines were pulled and someone was asking for water the pump was always wet and ready to go...acceptable practice?

    Thanks

    Mark

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  2. UnknownFebruary 2, 2015 at 9:19 AM

    Hello Mark,

    Thanks for the great question. I have found that draining the pump will take several minutes after opening every inlet/outlet, drains and operating the primer. I have found that water sitting in the heat pan can be misleading and appear like extra water draining from the pump. I will often close and re-open the master drain to verify if there is extra water pooling in the bottom of the pump from a leaking valve.

    I 100% agree on your procedure of flooding the pump and pulling the tank fill 1/4 of the way before engaging the pump. This will often prime the pump without the use of the primer and prevent any damage from running a dry pump. The truck can run in this mode for several hours without freezing or overheating the pump.

    Thanks and Happy Pumping!
    Jacques

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